Using a MS5803 pressure sensor with an Arduino

With the DS18B20 temperature sensors in place, it was time to add the ‘depth’ part of the standard CDT suite. Usually piezoresistive transducers measure the difference between two pressure sensing ports. This meant that most of the pressure sensors out there would not be suitable for depth sensing because they are gauge pressure sensors, which need to have a “low side” port vented to atmosphere (even if the port for this is hidden from view).

These MS5803 pressure sensors are my very first SMD reflow pieces. Hopefully I did not toast them on the kitchen skillet I was using...

These MS5803 pressure sensors are my first SMD reflow pieces. Two of the four worked right off the skillet, but I had to hand solder the others because the reflow left some bridging.

I needed an “absolute” pressure transducer, that has had it’s low side port sealed to a vacuum. I found a plethora of great altimiter projects in the rocketry & octocopter world, (with Kalman filtering!) but far fewer people doing underwater implementations in caves.  But there are a few DIY dive computer  projects out there, at various stages of completion, that use versions of the MS5541C & MS5803 pressure sensors from Measurement Specialties, or the MPX5700 series from Freescale. Victor Konshin had published some code support for the MS5803 sensors on Github, but his .cpp was accessing them in SPI mode, and I really wanted to stick with an I2C implementation as part of my quest for a system with truly interchangeable sensors. That lead me to the Open ROV project were they had integrated the 14 bar version of the MS5803 into their IMU sensor package. And they were using an I2C implementation. Excellent! I ordered a couple of 2 bar, and 5 bar sensors from Servoflo ($25 each +shipping..ouch!) , and a set of SMT breakout boards from Adafruit. A little bit of kitchen skillet reflow, and things were progressing well. (note: I mount these sensors now by hand, which is faster after you get the hang of it it)

Breaking out the I2C interface traces to drive my pressure sensor. My first "real" hack on the project so far.

My first “real” hack on the project so far. (Note: This material was posted in early 2014 , and the only reason I did this hack was that at the time I was running the Tinyduino stack directly from an unregulated 4.5 battery. On my more recent loggers, built with regulated 3.3v promini style boards, I can just use the Vcc line to power the MS5803 sensors, without all this bother…)

But as I dug further into the MS5803 spec sheets I discovered a slight complication. These sensors required a supply voltage between 1.8 – 3.6 V, and my unregulated Tinyduino stack, running on 3 AA’s, was swinging from 4.7 down to 2.8v.  I was going to need some sort of voltage regulator to bring the logic levels into a range that the senor’s could tolerate, with all the attendant power losses that implied… And then it dawned on me that this same problem must exist for the other I2c sensors already available on the Tinyduino platform. So perhaps I might be able to hack into those board connections and drive my pressure sensor? (instead of burning away months worth of power regulating the entire system) The Tiny Ambient Light Sensor shield carried the  TAOS TSL2572 which had nearly identical voltage and power requirements to my MS5803.

I used JB weld to provide support for those delicate solder connections.

I used JB weld to provide support for those delicate solder connections.

So their voltage regulator, and level shifter, could do all the work for me if I could lift those traces.  But that was going to be the most delicate soldering work I have ever attempted. And I won’t pull your leg, it was grim, very grim indeed. Excess heat from the iron  conducted across the board and melted the previous joints with each additional wire I added.  So while the sensors themselves came off easily with an drywall knife, it took two hours (of colorful language…) to lift the traces out to separate jumper wires. I immediately slapped on a generous amount  of JB weld, because the connections were so incredibly fragile. I produced a couple of these breakouts, because I have other sensors to test, and I face this same logic level/voltage problem on the I2C lines every time I power the unregulated Tiny duino’s from a computer USB port.

With a connection to the mcu sorted, it was time to look at the pressure sensor itself. Because I wanted the sensor potted as cleanly as possible, I put the resistor, capacitor, and connections below the breakout board when I translated the suggested connection pattern from the datasheets to this diagram:

The viewed from above, with only one jumper above the plane of the breakout board.

This is viewed from above, with only one jumper above the plane of the SOIC-8 breakout. I used a 100nF (104) decoupling cap. The PS pin (protocol select) jumps to VDD setting I2C mode, and a 10K pulls CSB high, to set the address to 0x76.

And fortunately the solder connections are the same for the 5 bar, and the 2 bar versions:

I've learned not waste time making the solder joints "look pretty". If they work, I just leave them.

I’ve learned not waste time making the solder joints “look pretty”. If they work, I just leave them.

After testing that the sensors were actually working, I potted them into the housings using JB plastic weld putty, and Loctite E30CL:

The Loctite applicator gun is damned expensive, but it does give you ultra-fine control.

The Loctite applicator gun is expensive, but it gives you the ability to bring the epoxy right to the edge of the metal ring on the pressure sensor.

So that left only the script. The clearly written code by by Walt Holm  (on the Open ROV github) was designed around the 14 bar sensor; great for a DIY submersible, but not quite sensitive enough to detecting how a rainfall event affects an aquifer.  So I spent some time modifying their calculations to match those on the 2 Bar MS5803-02 datasheet :

// Calculate the actual Temperature (first-order computation)
TempDifference = (float)(AdcTemperature – ((long)CalConstant[5] * pow(2, 8)));
Temperature = (TempDifference * (float)CalConstant[6])/ pow(2, 23);
Temperature = Temperature + 2000; // temp in hundredths of a degree C

// Calculate the second-order offsets
if (Temperature < 2000.0) // Is temperature below or above 20.00 deg C?

{T2 = 3 * pow(TempDifference, 2) / pow(2, 31);
Off2 = 61 * pow((Temperature – 2000.0), 2);
Off2 = Off2 / pow(2, 4);
Sens2 = 2 * pow((Temperature – 2000.0), 2);}


{T2 = 0;
Off2 = 0;
Sens2 = 0;}

// Calculate the pressure parameters for 2 bar sensor
Offset = (float)CalConstant[2] * pow(2,17);
Offset = Offset + ((float)CalConstant[4] * TempDifference / pow(2, 6));
Sensitivity = (float)CalConstant[1] * pow(2, 16);
Sensitivity = Sensitivity + ((float)CalConstant[3] * TempDifference / pow(2, 7));

// Add second-order corrections
Offset = Offset – Off2;
Sensitivity = Sensitivity – Sens2;

// Calculate absolute pressure in bars
Pressure = (float)AdcPressure * Sensitivity / pow(2, 21);
Pressure = Pressure – Offset;
Pressure = Pressure / pow(2, 15);
Pressure = Pressure / 100; // Set output to millibars

The nice thing about this sensor is that it also delivers a high resolution temperature signal, so my stationary pressure logger does not need a second sensor for that.

A Reef census is co-deployed with the pressure sensor to ground truth this initial test.

A Reefnet Census Ultra is co-deployed with my pressure sensor to ground truth this initial run.

So that’s it, the unit went under water on March 22, 2014, and the current plan is to leave it there for about 4 months. This kind of long duration submersion is probably way out of spec for the epoxy, and for the pressure sensors flexible gel cap. But at least we potted the sensor board with a clear epoxy,  so it should be relatively easy to see how well everything stands up to the constant exposure. (I do wonder if I should have put a layer of silicone over top of the sensor like some of the dive computer manufacturers)


Addendum 2014-03-30

I keep finding rumors of a really cheap “uncompensated” pressure sensor out there on the net for about 5 bucks: the HopeRF HSF700-TQ.  But I have yet to find any for sale in quantities less than 1000 units.  If anyone finds a source for a small number of these guys, please post a link in the comments, and I will test them out.  The ten dollar MS5805-02BA might also be pressed into service for shallow deployments using its extended range, if one can seal the open port well enough with silicone. And if all of these fail due to the long duration of exposure, I will go up market to industrial sensors isolated in silicon oil , like the 86bsd, but I am sure they will cost an arm and a leg. 

Addendum 2014-04-15

Looks like Luke Miller has found the the float values used in the calculations from the ROV code generates significant errors. He has corrected them to integers and posted code on his github. Unfortunately one of the glitches he found was at 22.5°C, right around the temperature of the water my units are deployed in. I won’t know for some months how this affects my prototypes. With my so many sensors hanging off of my units, I don’t actually have enough free ram left for his “long int” calculations, so I am just logging the raw data for processing later.

Addendum 2014-09-10

The unit in the picture above survived till we replaced that sensor with a 5-Bar unit on Aug 25th. That’s five months under water for a sensor that is only rated in the spec sheets for a couple of hours of submersion. I still have to pull the barometric signal out of the combined” readings, but on first bounce, the data looks good (mirroring the record from the Reefnet Sensus Ultra)  Since the 2-Bar sensor was still running, it was redeployed in Rio Secreto Cave (above the water table) on 2014-09-03. It will be interesting to see just how long one of these little sensors will last.

Addendum 2014-12-18

The 2Bar unit (in the photo above) delivered several months of beautiful barometric data from it’s “dry” cave deployment, and was redeployed for a second underwater stint in Dec 2014. The 5Bar unit survived 4 months of salt water exposure, but we only got a month of data from it because an epoxy failure on the temperature sensor drained the batteries instantly.  After a makeshift repair in the field, it has now been re-deployed as a surface pressure unit. The good news is that we had the 5Bar sensor under a layer of QSil 216 Clear Liquid Silicone, and the pressure readings look absolutely normal compared to the naked 2bar sensor it replaced. So this will become part of my standard treatment for underwater pressure sensors to give them an extra layer of protection.

Addendum 2015-01-16

I know the MCP9808 is a bit redundant here, but at only $5, it's nice to get to ±0.25C accuracy. The MS5803's are only rated to ±2.5ºC

I know the MCP9808 is a little redundant here, but at $5 each, it’s nice to reach ±0.25ºC accuracy. The MS5803’s are only rated to ±2.5ºC, and you can really see that in the data when you compare the two. The low profile 5050 LED still has good visibility with a 50K Ω limiter on the common ground line. Test your sensors & led well before you pour the epoxy! (Note: the 9808 temp sensor & LED pictured here failed after about 8 months. I suspect this was due to the epoxy flexing under pressure at depth because of the large exposed surface area. The MS5803 was still working ok.)

Just thought I would post an update on how I am mounting the current crop of pressure sensors.  My new underwater housing design had less surface area so I combined the pressure sensor, the temperature sensor, and the indicator LED into a single well which gives me the flexibility to use larger breakout boards. That’s allot of surface area to expose at depth, so I expect there will some flexing forces. At this point I have enough confidence  in the Loctite ECL30 to pot everything together, even though my open ocean tests have seen significant yellowing. The bio-fouling is pretty intense out there, so it could just be critters chewing on the epoxy compound. Hopefully a surface layer of Qsil will protect this new batch from that fate.

Addendum 2015-03-02

Just put a 4-5mm coating of Qsil over a few MS5803’s in this new single-ring mount, and on the bench the coating seems to reduce the pressure reading by between 10-50 mbar, as compared to the readings I get from the sensors that are uncoated. Given that these sensors are ±2.5% to begin with, the worst ones have about doubled their error.  I don’t know if this will be constant through the depth range, or if the offset will change with temperature, but if it means that I can rely on the sensor operating for one full year under water, I will live with it.

Addendum 2015-04-06

Just returned from a bit of fieldwork where we had re-purposed a pressure sensor from underwater work to the surface. That sensor had Qsil silicone on it, and while it delivered a beautiful record in the the flooded caves, where temperatures vary by less than a degree, it went completely bananas out in the tropical sun where temps varied by 20°C or more per day. I suspect that the silicone was expanding and contracting with temperature, and this caused physical pressure on the sensor that completely swamped the barometric pressure signal. 

Addendum 2016-02-01

Holding MS5803 sensor in place for soldering

Use the smallest with zip tie you can find.


I also use a wood block to steady my hand during the smd scale soldering.

Since these are SMD sensors, mounting them can be a bit of a pain so I though would add a few comments about getting them ready. I find that holding the sensor in place with a zip tie around the SOIC-8 breakout makes a huge difference.  Also, I find it easier to use the standard sharp tip on my Hakko, rather than a fine point  which never seem to transfer the heat as well.  I plant the point of the iron into the small vertical grooves on the side of the sensor.  I then apply a tiny bead of solder to the tip of the iron, which usually ends up sitting on top, then I roll the iron between my fingers to bring this the bead around to make contact with the pads on the board. So far this technique has been working fairly well, and though the sensors do get pretty warm they have all survived so far.  If you get bridging, you can usually flick away the excess solder if you hold the sensor so that the bridged pads are pointing downwards when you re-heat them.


Stages of MS5803 mounting procedure

After mounting the sensor to the breakout board, I think of the rest of the job in two stages: step one is the innermost pair (flipped horizontally) , and step two by the outermost pair. In this configuration CSB is pulled up by that resistor, giving you an I2C address of 0x76. Here SCL is yellow, and SDA is white.

Sometimes you need to heat all of the contacts on the side of the sensor at the same time with the flat of the iron to re-flow any bridges that have occurred underneath the sensor itself. If your sensor does not work, or gives you the wrong I2C address, its probably because of this hidden bridging problem.

back side connection ms5803

Adafruit still makes the nicest boards to work with, but the cheap eBay SOIC8 breakouts (like the one pictured above)  have also worked fine and they let me mount the board in smaller epoxy wells.  Leave the one leg of the pullup resistor long enough to jump over to Vcc on the top side of the board.

Addendum 2016-03-08

Have the next generation of pressure sensors running burn tests to see what offsets have been induced by contraction of the epoxy.  I’ve been experimenting with different mounting styles, to see if that plays a part too:

These housings are still open, as it takes a good two weeks for the pvc solvent to clear out...

The housings are left open during the bookshelf runs as it takes a couple of weeks for the pvc solvent to completely clear out, and who knows what effect that would have on the circuits…

The MS5803’s auto-sleep brilliantly, so several of these loggers make it down to ~0.085 mA between readings, and most of that is due to the SD card.  I’m still using E-30Cl, but wondering if other potting compounds might be better? There just isn’t much selection out there in if you can only buy small quantities at one time. The E30 flexed enough on deeper deployments that it eventually killed off the 5050 LEDs. (using standard 5mm body LEDs  now) And I saw some suspicious trends in the temp readings from the MCP9808 under that epoxy too…

Addendum 2016-03-09

Just a quick snapshot from the run test pictured above:


These are just quick first-order calculations (in a room above 20°C). Apparently no effect from the different mounting configurations, but by comparison to the local records, the whole set is reading low by about 20 mbar. This agrees with the offsets I’ve seen in other MS5803 builds, but I am kicking myself now for not testing this set of sensors more thoroughly before I mounted them. Will do that properly on the next batch.

Addendum 2016-09-22

You can change the I2C address on these sensors to either 0x76 or 0x77 by connecting the CSB pin to either VDD or GND. This lets you connect two pressure sensors to the same logger, and I’ve been having great success putting that second sensor on cables as long as 25 m. This opens up a host of possibilities for environmental monitoring especially for things like tide-gauge applications, where the logger can be kept above water for easier servicing.

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20 Responses to Using a MS5803 pressure sensor with an Arduino

  1. Kai Laborenz says:

    Hi Edward,
    I came across your blog searching for miniature pressure sensors – very interesting project! I am trying to build a small model (about 15cm in diameter) of the diving saucer (submarine from legendary ocean researcher Jaques Cousteau) and I am looking for a sensor to limit the maximum operation depth. So I need a sensor that is accurate at about 1 meter depth and very small. Can I use this sensor you are using? How do I mount it – can it be exposed to water?
    Thanks for your help, Kai

    • edmallon says:

      Hi Kai,
      As you can see from the pictures in the post, my pressure sensors are just mounted inside simple rings of 3/4 inch pvc that are solvent welded to the outside of the housings. (always roughen the smooth inner surface of the pipe with sandpaper before gluing, so the epoxy grips better later) I use JB plastic weld putty to stop up the hole on the inside of the housing (needed for the wire pass-through) so that I can pour the liquid Loctite E30CL epoxy into the well up the silver rim of the MS5803 sensor. Be very careful not to let the meniscus of the epoxy creep over the rim or it will ruin your sensor. The MS5803 series is rated waterproof (which is why so many diy dive computer projects are using them) and if you project is not going below 10m, the MS5803-02 will give you almost centimeter level resolution.
      The question I am struggling with is how long these sensors can be exposed to water, especially salt water. My first pressure sensing model is still in the cave, so I won’t know for a while if it survived. For the next generation I am switching over to a more protected approach, where I use the hard epoxy up to the sensor board, and then once that has cured, I fill the rest of the space in the sensor well with QSil 216 silicone: Mounting the pressure sensor. Of course this is going to introduce a huge amount of thermal lag, so the temperature sensing built into the MS5803 is probably rendered useless by this treatment.
      Also, the 5803’s are pretty expensive ($30 each), so I have been investigating alternatives, and have been happy to find out that the much cheaper MS5805 series of sensors ($10) have nearly identical register mapping & calculations, so you can use the MS5805-02 with Luke Millers excellent library for the MS5803-02. (you have to enable its “extended” pressure range & the CRC checks are different). The MS5805 is not rated water “proof”, just splash resistant, but my guess is that mounting them with the epoxy & Qsil, will make them “good enough” for short term submersions:My first attempt to waterproof the MS5805-02 But I have not had a chance to dunk test this one yet…will report on that when I get around to it.

      • Tim Senecal says:


        have you had an opportunity to test the MS5805 yet? how did it go?

      • edmallon says:

        I put some 5805’s in the caves for a few months, and they give great data when they are running. But even though the cave units were only exposed to humidity (around 90% RH, as opposed to direct water contact) they only ran for a month before they stopped working. [ I think I am going to stick with the 5803’s from now on, though they do have one weakness: the little white rubber cap will start to bubble (ruining the seal) if you accidentally leave your logger sitting in your car under full sun. So protect them from getting too hot. Currently I put a thin (1-2mm) layer of Qsil silicone over the sensors I am taking under water, but not the ones that I am using at the surface due to the thermal expansion problems described in that post.

  2. Kai Laborenz says:

    Hi Edward,
    thanks for your reply. The 5805 looks very promising. Because I use it on a rc “toy” – long term stability wouldn’t be an issue. The boat wouldn’t operate more than 1/2 hour on one day. It wouldn’t go below 1 m – max. more like 50 cm. Can you tell me something about sensitivity air compared to water? I would guess the sensitivity would be higher in water because of the bigger pressure differences – is that right?

    • edmallon says:

      The on-line pressure at depth calculators show that pressure changes by about 1mbar/cm of water depth, which is significantly more of a change/distance than you would get in air. According to the datasheet, MS5805 goes to 2000 mbar in its extended range, and the ADC is 24 bit, so you have a “theoretical” sensor resolution something like 2000mBar/16,777,215 = 0.000119 mbar. That would be sub millimeter accuracy if it were true. My experience is that there is so much noise in the data from sensor/ADC combinations above 12 bit, that you just end up filtering all of that extra resolution out of the signal anyway. Real world factors like wind, waves, etc., mean that if you get consistent numbers anywhere near the cm range, you are probably doing great.

  3. NFick says:

    I am wondering how pressure gages work. If it says the preasure range is 10 to 1100 mbar, but the pressure max is 10 bar, does this mean the pressure range is from a calibration point, and once calibrated it will give the full range? You made that comment above that the MS5803-02BA would work down to ~10 m, so I am assuming this is the case.

    • edmallon says:

      The MS5803-02 has a max pressure of 2 bar (or two atmospheres). 10m of water exerts approximately the same pressure as the entire atmosphere of air, so when your sensor is at 10m (or 33ft) depth, it is under 2 atmospheres of total pressure (the water + the air above that). You don’t generally do calibration to the kind of pressure sensors I have been using, as that gets done at the factory when one side of the sensor is sealed to a vacuum internally. Because the atmosphere is always present on top, you have to subtract the weight of the air from the total depth range of your sensor: so a sensor rated at 10 bar/atmosphere, can only go to 9Bar’s worth of depth before it reads it maximum reading.

  4. Woody says:

    nice blog! Note that at a recent “wearables” conference in Santa Clara I talked to one of the engineers from Measurement Specialties, and the guy specifically recommended the MS5805 for use in a dive watch(…and very nicely provided a couple of samples). My recollection is the engineering rep seemed to recommend to seal the MS5805 with an O-ring (to protect the wiring), but that submerging to about 100 foot should be no problem at all.

    I too want to use the MS5805 for an underwater (skin diving) app for abalone diving…and also looking into monitoring pressure of my sprinklers via a sparkcore wifi and a Firebase cloud database for leak detection (email me if see pressure differences from one day to the next, etc,).

    In any event, getting the MS5805 wired up/soldered to some I2C wires is a bit of a challenge for me…my question is how sensitive was the MS5805 to heat/handling/static-electricity-stress, etc? I only got a couple of the MS5805’s (in factory packaging) and I’m not sure how careful to treat them.

    Also: anybody on this blog might be in the Northern California area, I attend a Hacker Lab meetup on Arduino IOT type stuff from time to time.

    • edmallon says:

      I would describe both the 05’s and 03’s as reasonably robust. Back when I was trying to surface mount them with skillet reflow I had quite a bit of bridging and had to un-solder many of them. My technique is not great, so those sensors got pretty hot during the process of lifting them but they all still worked afterwards. Since then I have found that its actually not that bad to tack them down to the pads by hand soldering, so that’s how I do them all now. Still a bit tricky though. WRT O-rings & depth, I think the rep is right. I am currently blaming epoxy problems for most of my failures, rather than the sensors.

  5. siddhant gupta says:

    I am looking for a good pressure sensor with accurate reading to be used in an AUV with a depth rating of 30m.

    • edmallon says:

      The folks over at the OpenROV project have been using the MS5803-14BA in their depth and heading/IMU sensor board for a while now. In theory this sensor can measure up to 14 atmospheres of pressure with 0.2 mbar resolution, which will get you past 30m, but I would dig through their forum to see how the sensor actually performs. Luke Miller also uses this sensor on his Open Wave Height logger, and he has released libraries to drive from an Arduino on his Github. That should be enough to get you started.

  6. ostapsky says:

    Our team of speleology enthusiasts from Ukraine works pretty much in the same field as you are.
    We have developed loggers to collect data about subtle temperature changes in Ozerna cave during the year, and now we want to log the water level. So my question is: how do you think, which sensor is better to measure water level changes in range 1 to 9 meters – 02ba or 05ba? Can we expect, that those sensors would give us stable readings during the year, without extra silicone coating?

    • edmallon says:

      I have switched over to the 05’s for all my underwater units now. Remember that the 02’s use up their “first” atmosphere’s worth of range before they even go under water, so they max out their range at only 10m depth. I only use the 02’s for surface barometric records.
      Also, I no longer apply extra Qsil silicone coating over the pressure sensors. On my surface units the coating had thermal expansion problems that completely overwhelmed the sensor, and in my deeper (15m) saline deployments where the temperatures were very stable, there was a long term drift problem which I think might have been caused by the silicone absorbing salt & water. I know the MS5803 sensors are not rated for long underwater exposures in the data sheet, but I have had many units survive more than 6 months under water. But I expect them to stop working soon, and so I simply build my loggers with replaceable sensor caps so that sensors can be replaced easily when they fail.

  7. Dieo says:

    Hello edmallon,
    I have read some of your experiences working on this project and I’m really grateful to you for sharing your knowledge.

    I’m working with the hydrodynamic forces inside cylindrical containers under earthquakes and I’d like to measure the distribution of the pressure in the container wall. I am considering to use this sensor that seems to be the next generation of the sensors MS5803 you are using.

    I’d be glad if you can help me with the following questions:

    1. According to your experience, do you believe that a digital sensor would be better than an analogue one? I have read the difference but it isn’t clear enough.

    2. My idea is to only attach the sensor to the container wall and left all the other connections outside the container (that is 75 cm high and 45 cm diameter). Do you have any recommendations regarding which I2C and the Arduino?

    3. The sensor I showed has only four connection instead of eight of the sensor MS5803, can I use the same board that you use?

    Thank you!


    Diego Hernandez

    • edmallon says:

      Hi Diego,

      With regards to the MS5837 30bar sensor, my first thought is how large is your signal? Which sensor range you want depends on the nature of the signal you are looking for. The 24-bit ADC inside the M.S. sensors is the same no matter what the sensors range is, so those same number of ADC bits will give you twice the effective resolution in a 14bar sensor, and 3x the resolution in a 10bar version. Of course the maximum pressure also limits the depth you can deploy to, so that puts a constraint on your choice of sensor as well.

      1) In this case, digital is the way to go because the Arduinos (and most other microcontrollers) have a pretty feeble 10 bit ADC, which usually translates into poor resolution of your signal. You can overcome this with a separate high resolution ADC (the ADS1115, or the AD7705 are a popular choices) but then you end up paying more for the sensor & ADC combination, than you would for the straight MS sensor which has the 24 bit ADC built in. However there is one really big caveat here: Digital sensors are usually pretty slow and bus communications can limit the number of readings you can take per second. If your signals are really short, then you need temporal resolution more than signal resolution, and that might force you to use an analog sensor to get the number of readings you need per second.

      2) Without knowing more about your container configuration, it’s a bit hard to give advice on the best physical layout for your logger & sensors. I have recently started putting my pressure sensors on the end of 10m cables for bore-hole work [ see: ] and with a really slow 50kHz bus clock and smaller pull-up resistors I can get those units to read reliably out to 20m. If you are within that distance from the surface, you could just run a cable out to your container, and leave the whole logger at the surface. Even if the logger has to be inside the cylinder, it’s worth noting how I mounted the pressure sensor in a threaded plumbing fitting. If you tapped threads into the correct size hole in your cylinder, you could use that to put your sensors into whatever location you need, even if the loggerbody has to be tucked away inside.

      3) The MS5803 that I described on the page above can be used as either an I2C, or an SPI bus sensor, so there are extra connections to set the jumpers which tell the sensor how to communicate. The 580x’s can also have two bus addresses, so that you can put more than one sensor on the same logger without having an address conflict. The 5837 you are looking at only needs the four standard I2C connection points, because it does not have the added features of the 580x sensors. This means that unless you solder your wires directly to the bottom of the sensor, you will need to find a different breakout board than the SOIC8 one I used. There are many different versions of those boards, so you will have to dig through the data sheets to find the matching one for the MS5837. Personally I would just try soldering the connection wires directly to the sensor first, and see if that is strong enough. I like the 26AWG silicone wire from Adafruit for my sensor connections, as its easy to thread them through the housings before potting the sensor with Loctite E30-CL epoxy.

      And finally, your project sounds fascinating. We rarely need to read our sensors very often for normal environmental monitoring, but you might need to run them very quickly to characterize the shape of the pressure waves (?) Luke Miller has been reading pressure sensors very rapidly over at his Open Wave Height Logger project, so I suggest you read through his adventures there. Also remember that there is usually more than one way to capture a given environmental signal. So check the web for other seismology projects to see how they handle rapid signal sampling on the relatively limited 328P processor in an Arduino.

  8. Philip Dostie says:


    Firstly, I just have to say thanks for this blog and sharing your experiences building these sensors, what a wealth of knowledge and insight into experimental design. If you have a moment I’d appreciate some advice on a project I’ve planned.

    I’d like to build a series of Data Loggers that monitor temp, pressure, and EC to chart tidal flow vs groundwater in marine marsh environments using 2″ PVC wells that have been driven into the marsh. I think the most logical course of action is to build off of the MS5803 pressure sensors on the end of 10M cable as you’ve built recently, adding on an EC sensor and using an atlas EZO EC chip to read the EC probe.

    I’m a little lost trying to follow you powering the MS5803’s using the TSL2572’s…; this is done for every pressure sensor build? I’m thinking that it may not makes sense for us to power the pressure sensors this way as our loggers will be fairly easily accessible and only in deployment for weeks at a time rather than upwards of a year. Can you recommend a level shifter/ voltage regulator, or another option?


    Phil D

    • edmallon says:

      That TSL2572 board hack was only relevant when I was using Tinyduino loggers, and I only did that at the beginning of the project – before I figured out how make my own dataloggers from scratch. At the time I was running the Tinyduinos directly from a battery with no regulator – so I hacked into the light sensor board just to get a 3.3v line for the pressure sensor. But that was really quite silly of me because using a separate regulator, like the MCP1700’s I describe on the Power Optimization Post is much easier to do, and you could put that regulator on the battery connector (see the photo of this near the bottom of the page) and have it provide 3.3v to the whole system. That’s assuming you are using a unregulated system like the Tiny’s
      If you are building your own logger based on a 3.3v board, then you can just use the output of the regulator already in place. If you are using a 5v Arduino the I would look at the Sparkfun board, or BSS138 board from Adafruit or you could try their 3.3v UNO conversion.

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